Denali State Park
(Mat-Su Valley)
(Printer
version Denali State Park)
Denali State Park is an integral part of one of North
America’s most spectacularly beautiful regions. The park’s 325,240 acres, almost
one-half the size of Rhode Island, provide the visitor with a great variety of
recreational opportunities, ranging from roadside camping to wilderness
exploration.
The park is about 100 air miles north of Anchorage and is divided roughly in
half by the George Parks Highway, the major road link between Anchorage and
Fairbanks. Situated between the Talkeetna Mountains to the east and the Alaska
Range to the west, the landscape varies from meandering lowland streams to
alpine tundra. Dominating this diverse terrain are Curry and Kesugi Ridges, a 35
mile-long north/south alpine ridge, the backbone of the eastern half of the
park.
"Kesugi" is a Tanaina Indian dialect word meaning "The Ancient One" and is a
fitting complement of the Tanana Indian word "Denali" which means "The High
One". Denali is the original name for Mt. McKinley. At 20,320 feet, Mt. McKinley
is North America’s highest peak. It literally and figuratively towers over
Southcentral Alaska from its base in Denali National Park.
Denali State Park was established in 1970 and expanded to its present size in
1976. Its western boundary is shared with its much larger neighbor, Denali
National Park and Preserve, formerly Mt. McKinley National Park.
The Alaska Range
The great mountain and its companion peaks are accented by spectacular valley
glaciers and steep ice-carved gorges and a year-around mantle of snow and ice
above 8,000 feet. These glaciers, such as the Ruth, Buskin, and Eldridge, are
from 14 to 38 miles long and up to four miles wide. They flow from the high
peaks and melt into the broad U-shaped Chulitna Valley, giving the Chulitna
River the milky waters and braided channels that are typical of a glacial
stream. Though only 35 miles from the summit of Mt. McKinley, the flood plain of
the Chulitna is but 550 feet in elevation.
Denali State Park has superb vantage points for viewing the breathtaking heart
of the Alaska Range. Perhaps the best roadside view anywhere of the Alaska Range
is at mile 135.2 Parks Highway. An interpretive bulletin board at this site
names the mountains and other terrain features. Other excellent views of Mt.
McKinley along the highway are at mile 147.1, 158.1, and 162.3. Day hikers on
Kesugi Ridge or backpackers in the Peters Hills in the western end of the park
have an unencumbered view of the Denali massif that is almost overwhelming in
grandeur.
The beauty of Mount McKinley and the Alaska Range from the Peters Hills was
captured on large canvas oil paintings by preeminent Alaskan artist Sydney
Laurence in the early part of this century. When the railroad trip from Seward
and Anchorage to Fairbanks took two days, travelers in the early 1900's
sometimes stayed an extra day at Curry to ascend the east side of Curry Ridge
and gaze upon Mt. McKinley and its wonders from Curry Lookout. This small
hexagonal-shaped building still weathers storms on the ridge.
Wildlife
From the alpine tundra of Curry Ridge to the river bottoms of the meandering
Tokositna River, the park’s varied landscape is home to a diverse array of
wildlife. Moose, as well as grizzly and black bears, are found throughout the
park. Though seldom seen, the wolf frequents much of the park, and caribou
occasionally reach the park’s northern end. Smaller, elusive residents include
lynx, coyote, red fox, snowshoe hare, land otter, and flying and red squirrel.
The weasel family is well represented by ermine, marten, mink and wolverine. Wet
areas are habitat for muskrat and beaver, while pika and marmot may be found in
rocky areas above timberline. Porcupine will be glad to browse through your food
box for salt. Several species of vole and shrew make their minute paths
throughout the park.
Wildlife, particularly bears, can be dangerous. Never approach wild animals
closely, especially those with young. To avoid surprises, warn animals of your
presence by making noise, singing, or carrying bells when in the brush.
The tapestry of habitats in the park yield an especially rich bird community.
More than 130 species use the park for breeding or during migration. Year-round
residents include the ubiquitous common raven, his cousin the gray jay, willow
ptarmigan (the state bird), and acrobatic flocks of black-capped and boreal
chickadees. However, most birds migrate long distances to frequent the park. The
champion marathoner of the bird world, the arctic tern, flies some 12,000 miles
to breed in Denali, repeating the journey to winter in the Antarctic. A
shorebird, the lesser golden plover, nests on the alpine tundra after wintering
in faraway Polynesia. Water birds such as the rare, majestic trumpeter swan, the
common loon with its haunting call, and the fish-eating osprey are attracted to
the park’s myriad lakes and streams. Early on a June morning, the woods and
ridges are alive with the ringing of bird song as a host of small birds, like
the golden-crowned sparrow, Wilson’s warbler, and ruby-crowned kinglet, proclaim
their territories.
Fishing Denali’s clear streams is a great delight to many park visitors.
However, the large rivers are clouded with pulverized rock known as glacial
flour and provide poor sport fishing. All five species of Pacific salmon spawn
within the waters of the park and share the streams with rainbow trout, arctic
grayling, and Dolly Varden. Small numbers of lake trout inhabit Byers, Spink,
and Lucy Lakes. Burbot and whitefish can also be found in Byers Lake.
Climate
The weather in the park is tempered from continental extremes by the relatively
warm ocean waters 100 miles to the south. The Alaska Range to the north protects
the park from the dramatic temperature extremes common to Interior Alaska.
In summer, temperatures are usually in the 60's with highs, rarely, to 85
degrees F. In mid-summer, almost 21 hours of possible daylight give ample
opportunities for recreational activities. Average winter highs range from zero
to 30 degrees F, while on extremely cold days the low may reach minus 40 degrees
F.
Annual precipitation reaches 30 inches, including an average annual 180 inches
of snowfall. Snow begins to accumulate in October and frequently reaches depths
of six feet or more. Ice depths on Byers Lake can be quite variable and should
be checked before assumed safe. Snow usually melts in May, although patches at
higher elevations may persist into July.
Plant Life
The mosaic of plant life is dominated by the white spruce and paper birch
forest. Above the 2500 foot timberline, moss campion, mountain avens, and other
hardy flowering plants brighten the low-growing alpine tundra community. Moist
tundra meadows, frequently characterized by cotton grass tussocks, may be found
in poorly drained areas.
Patches of dense birch-alder-willow thickets are present on upper hillsides and
are a bane to off-trail hikers. Black spruce stands surround low muskeg areas,
and large black spruce cottonwoods and balsam poplars grow along the river flood
plains, particularly west of the Chulitna River. Edible berries of some variety
are associated with each of these plant communities; species include
blueberries, highbush and lowbush cranberries, currants, watermelon berries,
crowberries, and cloudberries.
Safety in the Back Country
Except for roadside facilities, the park is essentially a wilderness. Proper
equipment, good physical condition, and appropriate knowledge are necessary for
safe back country travel. Hiking routes may not be clearly marked, so the
ability to use topographic maps is essential, especially in poor weather.
The park is large, and emergency aid may be many hours away. Back country users
should be prepared to handle their own emergencies. Hikers should always carry
warm clothing and good quality rain gear, as inclement weather can set in
quickly and last for days.
Awareness of your actual location on a map can be critical in whiteout
conditions, which can occur in any season. The use of USGS topographic maps will
enhance your appreciation of the park’s terrain and help you keep track of your
whereabouts. USGS maps for Denali are Talkeetna C-1, C-2, and D-1, and Talkeetna
Mountains C-6 and D-6. They are available at the Visitor Contact Station at the
Alaska Veterans Memorial, Mile 147.1, Parks Highway.
Glacial and snow-melt streams can rise radically between morning and midday, so
planning and caution are needed when crossing rivers. Safe travel near glacial
or avalanche terrain requires experience and special equipment. Back country
travelers should never travel alone, especially in winter. They should inform a
friend of planned travel and routes and return time. In addition, a trip
information slip should be filled out at the trail register boxes located at the
trailheads.
Source: Alaska State Parks.
For more information on Alaska State Parks, visit the Alaska State Parks web site.
Alaska
National Parks
Denali National Park,
Kenai Fjords National Park,
Lake Clark National Park,
Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
Alaska State
Parks by Region
Anchorage,
Interior Alaska,
Kenai Peninsula,
Kodiak,
Mat-Su
Valley,
Prince William Sound,
Southeast Alaska,
Southwest Alaska
Alaska State Parks by Name
Anchor River State Recreation Area and Stariski SRS,
Birch Lake
State Recreation Site,
Caines Head State Recreation Area and Resurrection Bay State Marine Parks,
Captain
Cook State Recreation Area,
Chena
River State Recreation Area,
Chena
River State Recreation Site,
Chilkat Bald
Eagle Preserve,
Chugach State Park,
Clam Gulch
State Recreation Area,
Deep Creek
State Recreation Area,
Delta
Junction Area State Parks,
Denali State Park,
Haines Area State
Parks,
Harding
Lake State Recreation Area,
Independence Mine State Historical Park,
Kachemak Bay State Park and State Wilderness Park,
Kasilof Area State
Parks,
Kenai
River Special Management Area,
Kodiak Area State
Parks,
Nancy Lake State Recreation Area,
Ninilchik
State Recreation Area,
Point Bridget
State Park,
Salcha
River State Recreation Site,
Sitka Area State Parks,
State Marine Parks in Prince William Sound and Resurrection Bay,
Summit Lake
State Recreation Site, Tok
Area Parks,
Totem Bight
State Historical Park,
Upper Chatanika State Recreation Site,
Wickersham State Historic Site,
Wood-Tikchik
State Park
